![]() ![]() Daily 50% static renewals consisted of removing 5 L of water from each tank and then adding a 5 L of treatment solution. Throughout exposure to POTW effluents and control treatments, the fish remained in their original acclimation tanks, and received treatment solutions by static renewal. The percentage survival of fish per treatment ranged between 88 and 100%. During the 14-day exposures, water quality averages were as follows: dissolved oxygen 7.64☐.35 mg/L, ammonia 1.49☑.3 mg/L, conductivity 340.29☓3.2 µS and pH 7.42☐.1. Water quality was recorded three times a week during the experiment (total ammonia, dissolved oxygen, conductivity, pH and temperature). Fish were fed frozen adult brine shrimp twice daily (approximately 0.1g of food per gram-fish weight). Each treatment was renewed daily by replacing fifty percent of the volume in each tank. Water temperature was maintained at 25+1oC with a photoperiod of 16 hours light: 8 hours dark. The aquaria received 10 L of moderately hard water or treatment solution and were aerated. ![]() The mod doesn’t have to do anything with the banding, it comes ‘out of the box’.GEO help: Mouse over screen elements for information.Įighteen fish were exposed per treatment. Note that the new model has a banding issue, as noted by Paul Hardwick, which mostly affects high gains. It doesn’t look good but it performs quite well. It is fitted to the rest of the box using 4 cable straps, connected to each other to form a rectangle. I used this material in order to avoid vibrations. I used pieces from from a sleeping pad and glued them together. I’ve had to open another hole as the speaker didn’t fit. Using the original connector is an easy way to have the CCD chip parallel with the image formed by the telescope. I opened a hole on the box and glued the connector there. I used a plastic box and the original lens connector of the camera. The USB +5V and GND can be obtained on the other side of the USB connector (right side of circuit board). ![]() Ii didn’t work because some probably some other components are powered through there so… DO NOT BEND it… Just bend the 2 pins indicated with the red circles. Through this pin the annoying white led is powered and I tried this as an easy way to get rid of it. DO NOT BEND the pin at the opposite site as shown in the photo (marked with X). Afterwards we’ll have to ‘bend’ the 2 pins indicated by the red circles so that they’ll not connect to the other side of the board We can get pads 8-13 and 10 just underneath the pins on the board (red circles). Having more space as I replaced the box, I arranged the components on a piece of breadboard. Below, I have some photos taken during the operation and the new fan-cooled case for the camera. ![]() Meijer’s webpage has an excellent tutorial on how to perform the modification. The crucial pins and their pads can be obtained from a far larger connector that connects the 2 parts of the camera board together. Having modified the older models, modifying the SPC900NC is a piece of cake. His original plans where used along with step-by-step help from m.m.j. The original idea of modifying a webcam for long exposures belongs to Steve chambers, whose web page is here. Note: I have transferred this article form my old site and some files are missing ![]()
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